Cruise on the Rhine

Clear skies and seasonal temperatures have presented us with a heavy frost in the Rhine Valley this morning. After a hearty breakfast and a promise of sunny skies, we climb aboard the Köln-Düsseldorfer for a cruise on the Rhine. From Bacharach, we navigate a cluster of rocks known as the ‘raft busters’. Around each bend we pass a castle or fortress, each with its own history. We come to a slate rock cliff known as the Loreley. Here lies the legend of a dangerous river nymph who has the power to drown careless sailors. If you look closely you can see her looking upstream from the base of the cliff.

Atop the high banks at St. Goar, we look up at the haunting ruins of Rheinfels Castle, the mightiest of them all. The castle was built in the 13th Century to protect the monastery and collect tolls on the river. Over centuries, it withstood a barrage of attacks including Louis XIV of France in 1692 with his army of 28,000. A hundred years later it was finally taken down by the French Revolutionary Army.

The significant remains still present a vivid picture of its grand past. A maze of dark tunnels and secret passageways can still be accessed, making it a popular attraction for children of all ages. Monica and I fit the description as we explore the moat, tower, courtyard and dungeon. We inspect the cross-bow stations and the stone catapult balls. We examine the stables and walk inside the brauhaus (brewery). At last, we imagine the beehive of activity that once breathed life into this mighty fortress.

Our excursion resumes and we pass the Roman town of Boppard. Further along on the right stands the intact Marksburg Castle. Built in medieval times, it was never attacked. It has since been turned into a museum.

Our cruise ends at Koblenz. This city grew in prominence because of its location at the confluence of the Rhine and Mosel. Always a strategic location of defense, the city was 85% destroyed by Allied bombings in the 2nd World War. From the ashes, Koblenz has emerged as a modern commercial center for the region. Monica and I visited the city center where we found a special statue of a mischievous lad named Schängel. The statue represents the good spirits of the town. Schängel squirts a shower of water from his mouth every few minutes, landing on the pavement or anyone who is passing by. We walk around him carefully as we head for the train station and back to Bacharach.